Trace the curve of the smaller piece onto the larger piece then regrind the larger piece. The goal is to use the current shape of the smaller piece as a template. Layer a smaller piece on top of the adjacent larger piece with as little overlap as possible to scribe a new curve on the larger piece with a sharpie. The whole thing will just end up slightly smaller. You can fix some of the gaps - particularly the right eye and the nose. You CAN fill the gaps with solder but the gaps are quite large and that might be frustrating, and you may be disappointed with the result. If you don’t want to do that I would consider starting again, maybe trying to glue the pattern pieces to the glass, or at least going slower with more back-and-forth fit checks. I agree with the other advice - the gaps are too large, I would try grinding the pieces here and there so they lay more flush with each other. ![]() If you’re patient you will avoid creating big gaps. If you put the piece of glass you just ground a little off of on top of the pattern and it’s still too big in some areas, grind a little more off and check the fit again. This also isn’t permanent - water will make the paper soggy and it will start moving around, but personally I have found more success with this than marker on glass.Įven if the marker wears off though, if you go slow and are patient enough for a lot of back and forth between grinding a little off and lying the piece on top of the pattern to check the fit… you should be able to avoid having big gaps. Instead I print the pattern on card stock, cut the pieces out, and glue those card stock pieces onto the glass with a glue stick. Personally, I don’t use marker on the glass usually. I have also read that some people put chapstick on top of the marker to make it last longer. ![]() I’ve read that some people find more success with the metallic sharpies than the regular ones.
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